Ústí nad Labem may have its redeeming features, but these were not immediately obvious as we waited for the bus down the hill towards the eastern suburb of Nestemice. The locals claim with some pride that Marlene Dietrich was a regular visitor to Ústí, but in fairness the actress' perceived affection for Ústí was probably only due to the fact that her husband, Rudolf Sieber, came from the town.
On the main road, the bus decants its load at the intersection, and everyone else rushes to the connecting services. No-one except us lingers. For our route is different... south along a neglected little road called 'the First of May', which looks as though it has nothing to celebrate at all. It leads south to the railway line. There are only three other people in the street, and two of them are pushing prams, which hints of some fertility in this urban wilderness.